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Thread: Cars: 2015

  1. #401
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    Re: Cars: 2015

    Quote Originally Posted by alfablue View Post
    Even still, it still should be calibrated to run like a normal car. Increase the regen when the brakes are applied.
    when you step on the brakes it actually uses mechanical brakes to slow/stop the car -- that energy is not going back into the battery, it's lost to friction/heat. "coasting" cuts power to the electric motor but the momentum of the car continues to rotate the motor. When the electric motor is rotated by a force will act as a generator and the resistance will slow the vehicle down. The only way to 'coast' would be to continue to power the electric motor after you've taken your foot of the accelerator and slowly decrease the power or mechanically disconnect the electric motor from the wheels so they can spin freely. That would kill regenerative braking.
    Last edited by BassAle; 09-06-2019 at 03:22 PM.

  2. #402
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    Re: Cars: 2015

    Quote Originally Posted by state of hockey View Post
    Going that fast really screws with your senses. I love a particular story about a driver that got the Veyron up to top speed. When he was about to put it in park and open the door to get out, he noticed he was still going about 40 miles an hour.
    Not this past trip to Houghton, but last year, hit about 115 in my car, figured, ok, I'm approaching town (5 miles or so out) I'll slow down...ok, doing a little over the speed limit, 5-10 miles I think, look down, still doing 90. Oops. Can't imagine 200.
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  3. #403
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    Re: Cars: 2015

    Quote Originally Posted by BassAle View Post
    when you step on the brakes it actually uses mechanical brakes to slow/stop the car -- that energy is not going back into the battery, it's lost to friction/heat. "coasting" cuts power to the electric motor but the momentum of the car continues to rotate the motor. When the electric motor is rotated by a force will act as a generator and the resistance will slow the vehicle down. The only way to 'coast' would be to continue to power the electric motor after you've taken your foot of the accelerator and slowly decrease the power or mechanically disconnect the electric motor from the wheels so they can spin freely. That would kill regenerative braking.
    I do understand how cars slow down. What I'm saying that is should be done is when the brakes are applied, part of that braking force should be the generator pumping up the battery. That does apply a known load that can be compensated by the brake booster when that load goes down some.

    Even for "coasting" which would replicate engine braking (remember most cars turn the fuel off these days), you should be generating electricity and putting into the battery. So replicating a normal car would be replicating engine braking, which is slowing the car down, which can generate power. Many modern cars specifically recharge the battery when coasting down.

    This isn't hard, it just needs to be calibrated to do that.

  4. #404

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    Re: Cars: 2015

    If this ever happened, how fast would you disable it?

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  5. #405
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    Re: Cars: 2015

    I need help with some electronic issues that I've never seen before in a vehicle.

    I have a 2008 Subaru Tribeca. Had the right front headlight (low beam/normal) burn out. When this happened, my radio and HVAC control displays went dark. HVAC controls still worked correctly however. Radio did not turn on/work at all. Since I needed the headlight, I went and replaced it. Once the bulb was replaced, the radio and HVAC controls came back on.

    The radio is now messed up however. Auxilary input and CDs function just fine. AM/FM radio is all sorts of jacked up however. AM frequencies show as 891, 883, 748 and other odd numbers (normally whole numbers like 780, 1000, 670, etc.). They also have a limited scanable amount (can't remember AM exactly. Like 730ish to 950ish). FM frequencies are limited from 78.0 to 89.0 and nothing is picked up there either.

    Did a headlight going out fry my radio?
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  6. #406
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    Re: Cars: 2015

    Quote Originally Posted by RaceBoarder View Post
    I need help with some electronic issues that I've never seen before in a vehicle.

    I have a 2008 Subaru Tribeca. Had the right front headlight (low beam/normal) burn out. When this happened, my radio and HVAC control displays went dark. HVAC controls still worked correctly however. Radio did not turn on/work at all. Since I needed the headlight, I went and replaced it. Once the bulb was replaced, the radio and HVAC controls came back on.

    The radio is now messed up however. Auxilary input and CDs function just fine. AM/FM radio is all sorts of jacked up however. AM frequencies show as 891, 883, 748 and other odd numbers (normally whole numbers like 780, 1000, 670, etc.). They also have a limited scanable amount (can't remember AM exactly. Like 730ish to 950ish). FM frequencies are limited from 78.0 to 89.0 and nothing is picked up there either.

    Did a headlight going out fry my radio?
    I've never seen an FM frequency lower than 87.9 or so.

    Really dumb question time: did you pull the fuse, wait 30 seconds, and pop it back in? I did that one day when my radio didn't function, and that fixed the issue.
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  7. #407
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    Re: Cars: 2015

    Quote Originally Posted by Hammer View Post
    I've never seen an FM frequency lower than 87.9 or so.

    Really dumb question time: did you pull the fuse, wait 30 seconds, and pop it back in? I did that one day when my radio didn't function, and that fixed the issue.
    Have not changed anything other than the headlight...
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  8. #408
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    Re: Cars: 2015

    Quote Originally Posted by RaceBoarder View Post
    I need help with some electronic issues that I've never seen before in a vehicle.

    I have a 2008 Subaru Tribeca. Had the right front headlight (low beam/normal) burn out. When this happened, my radio and HVAC control displays went dark. HVAC controls still worked correctly however. Radio did not turn on/work at all. Since I needed the headlight, I went and replaced it. Once the bulb was replaced, the radio and HVAC controls came back on.

    The radio is now messed up however. Auxilary input and CDs function just fine. AM/FM radio is all sorts of jacked up however. AM frequencies show as 891, 883, 748 and other odd numbers (normally whole numbers like 780, 1000, 670, etc.). They also have a limited scanable amount (can't remember AM exactly. Like 730ish to 950ish). FM frequencies are limited from 78.0 to 89.0 and nothing is picked up there either.

    Did a headlight going out fry my radio?
    Those seem very much like a non-North American set up. I seem to recall having a Euro radio in a test car at one time, and could only get the lower bands in the US. I wonder if the circuit was the power to the main memory of the radio...

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